Delightfully peaceful old church housing a remarkable sculpture.
Betws y Coed means ‘the prayer house in the wood’, and the modern village takes its name from an ancient oratory, or ‘bede house,’ that once stood on the west bank of the River Conwy. The site is occupied today by the delightful old church of St Michael’s.
St Michael’s was built in the 14th century and has recently been lovingly restored. A charming place, it stands in a graveyard shaded by 1000-year-old yew trees. This graveyard was a favourite subject for the colony of artists who made their home in Betws y Coed in the 19th century, and today it offers a welcome haven from the relative bustle of the village.
Inside the sense of peace continues. At first the church seems arrestingly plain, with clean whitewashed walls and wooden pews. There are fragments of medieval stained glass and a simple font. Carved in the 13th century, the font is therefore older than the church itself.
Near the altar lies a medieval warrior carved in stone, dressed in full battle armour and armed with a sword and dagger. His head rests upon a helmet and a lion nestles at his feet. Both his hands are clasped together, and around the edge a Latin inscription reads “Here lies Gruffudd son of Dafydd the Red; Lamb of God have mercy upon me.”
Gruffudd fought at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356 alongside Edward the ‘Black Prince’, son of Edward III. He died sometime in the 1370s. Why Gruffudd’s grand effigy resides in the simple surroundings of St Michael’s no-one knows – it has clearly been cut down to fit the spot that it occupies now. However, it is believed that Gruffudd once owned land in the area and lived at a house, Fedw Deg, 2 miles to the south.
Pause to reflect among the churchyard’s ancient trees before viewing the splendid sculpture inside.
Free Entry
Easily located, north of the centre of Betws y Coed, near the railway station.
A short walk east of Betws y Coed railway station.
There are regular buses to and from Betws y Coed. Call Traveline on 0871 200 2233 or go online at http://www.traveline-cymru.info for the latest public transport information.
Easily located, north of the centre of Betws y Coed, near the railway station.
Easily located, north of the centre of Betws y Coed, near the railway station.
Easy access.
Full Figure Grid Reference: NGR SH79605656 Coordinates for Garmin satnav users: - 3.799516, 53.092632 OS Explorer map sheet: OL17