An intriguing and little-known princely castle with incomparable views.
The ruins of Castell Carndochan are to be found at the top of a rocky crag, about 6 miles west of Bala. It is not the easiest of the Welsh castles to visit, but it certainly repays the adventurous explorer. The steep hike to the top leads to one of the best views in Snowdonia, with the mountains of the Arenig range rising to the north and the River Dee winding through its valley to the east.
Castell Carndochan itself was probably built by Llywelyn the Great sometime between 1215 and 1230. The fortress defended the eastern border of Gwynedd and the important route that still runs between Bala and Dolgellau, as well as offering protection to the royal herds that grazed on the upland pasture. The remains of many hafotai (simple, rectangular dwellings) have been found on the lands around the castle. These were the settlements of the herdsmen who tended the animals over the summer months.
Enough is left of the castle itself to get a pretty clear idea of the layout. Masonry walls, some still standing to a height of about 2 metres, encircle a central area. On the eastern side the craggy rock has been incorporated into the wall. At the summit the traces of three main buildings can be made out. Best preserved and largest of all are the broken walls of a D-shaped tower to the south – a building shape that seems to have been particularly favoured by Llywelyn the Great.
Castell Carndochan has never been extensively researched by archaeologists, so it is unclear how or when it ceased to operate. Excavations of the 19th century, however, uncovered blackened soil, bones and charcoal, suggesting that its end might have come suddenly and violently.
Perfect for enjoying a brisk walk away from the crowd.
Free Entry
About 7 miles from Bala, off the A494.
26½ miles from Betws y Coed railway station.
No suitable bus service.
2 miles north-west of Llanuwchllyn.
2 miles north-west of Llanuwchllyn.
Difficult. Walking boots needed. Dogs allowed. Free entry.
Access to the castle is on private land and you need to seek permission from the farmer at nearby Dolhendre Farm to cross the fields that lead to it. Contact Mr. Gwyn Roberts (01678 540348).